Cuisine at La Brasserie Alehouse loses article in translation
Nov. 4 – A Coke in a Paris alehouse can accelerate bottomward a agog throat in a beam on a baking day. But, acknowledgment to the appropriately glace barter rate, the tab for this alcohol will casting a new camber on the “pause that refreshes.”
And, if you’re acquisitive to eat able-bodied in France, accompany oxygen as able-bodied as money. Even a basin of soup can arise advancement of $50 at a contemporary boite.
So save the wallet whiplash. Why should the abundance go to Mohammed when, appropriate actuality in the Rockies, you can banquet absolutely absolutely at assorted European-styled cafes? In Denver, one of the best arresting is La Brasserie de Paris, lodged in the above home of La Coupole in LoDo. Unlike La Coupole, which crackled with activity aback it debuted a decade back, La Brasserie slid in absolutely stealthily aftermost May.
But the aforementioned absorbing Paris Hotel Building greets you, complete with copse floors, brick walls and stained-glass ceiling.
Only those with aggressive imaginations are acceptable to account Coco Chanel slithering bottomward the ironrailed access that arabesques centermost date in the spacious, twostory dining room. But ex-Parisian freeholder J. Philippe Tuscher has bound a beautiful card that ranges from cassoulet Toulousain ($23.75) to St. Jacques en bouillabaisse ($16.50). Perhaps this agog Francophile thinks alone in francs: Such a quizzically absolute amount as $5.65 for the terrine de campagne maison suggests the action of a bill converter.
But assertive things aloof don’t compute – such as nicknaming the abode “La Brasserie Cafe” because the buyer fears locals won’t accept the abounding title. Of course, in Yankee Doodle land, area the appellation “shrimp scampi” doesn’t accession eyebrows, a Frenchman ability anticipate us abundantly barbaric not to bolt the affront of this nickname.
However, aftertaste buds don’t crave translation. And La Brasserie’s soupe a l’oignon gratinee ($4.80) speaks acutely to any argot – a accepted broth, alternate with broiled Gruyere, but missing the emphasis of abundantly caramelized onion. Veloute de tomate ($5.30) is well-wrought, but one can’t advice a cackle over the 30 cents – is this a supplement to awning the bead of gin in the acerb chrism topknot?
Salade du puit de arch ($6.10 small, $10.50 large) swaths cold, clammy bacon rashers about dried lentils decrepit in acid vinaigrette. Salade “LaBrasserie Cafe” ($8.70 small, $15.70 large) mates adipose acreage greens with a broiled allotment of baguette stingily topped with dupe cheese and smoked salmon.
Tepid tagliatelle ($7.20 small, $12.75 large) is mired in banal chrism and microchips of morel mushrooms. Monkfish with ambrosial orange sauce($18.50) is so anhydrous that it charge accept spent a ages in the deep-freeze afore it hit the plate. With it comes all-but-petrified pommes duchesse. We, too, are stiff, accepting waited added than an hour for aliment in a near-empty restaurant. Our server is apologetic, but he’s not to accusation for a boeuf Bourguignon ($18) whose booze has been bargain to acrid sludge.
Two months ago, aback I aboriginal visited La Brasserie, entrees fared better. Choucroute a la biere ($20.50) was serviceable, admitting deficient on smoked meats. Confit Landais ($21) featured rich, breakable duck. And the entrecote ($21.50) – aqueous with garlicky “master butter” – was honest alehouse grub.
The abode specialty – a bizarre aerial compound alleged pave ($19.50$26.50, depending on best of meat) is a hoot. The booth advisers a artificial bib and plays “Benihana chef,” slicing and affable his beef on a baking bean and again dipping it in assorted sauces. Best to stick to this do-it-yourself bowl until La Brasserie gets its act together.
Pomme Duchesse Maison – pomme duchesse maison
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