Illustration: Aude White
After activity my American ancestor at a bells in France in 1987, my mother confused to New York from Paris, the burghal she grew up in and had never fathomed leaving, for love. My parents accept been affiliated for 28 years now, but my mother’s adulation of Paris has been a constant affair. Throughout my life, she has aggregate her burghal with me in $.25 and pieces over summer trips and the anniversary or two of vacation I can additional from assignment every year. This is a awful abstract adviser to Paris — it’s about the Paris I’ve aggregate with her over the years, the places that accomplish my estranged, pseudo-motherland feel like home.
If you’re attractive to book an Airbnb rather than a hotel, I acclaim blockage out the 1st through 8th arrondissements, as able-bodied as the 12th, 13th, and 15th. They’re not abandoned centrally amid neighborhoods but additionally a stone’s bandy from the Seine River, which flows through Paris and makes for a admirable airing at any time of day or evening.
If money isn’t an affair and you’re attractive to book article classy, Le Narcisse in the 7th Arrondissement and L’Hotel in the 6th (where Oscar Wilde spent his final days) are both admirable and luxurious. If you’re attractive for article added avant-garde and hip, The Hoxton Paris in the 2nd Arrondissement opened this accomplished August. Added hotels to accede accommodate Auberge Baume in the 6th Arrondissement and Auberge Alizé Grennelle in the 15th.
When it comes to hotels, “cheap doesn’t abide in Paris,” warns a accessory who acclimated to assignment in hospitality, and behindhand of price, the apartment tend to be somewhat small.
There are affluence of crȇperies in Paris, but that doesn’t beggarly they’re all good. For a crȇpe that tastes like it’s beeline out of Brittany, go to La Crȇperie de Josselin, which you apperceive is acceptable because (1) it’s amid on a block that’s arranged with crȇperies, yet it’s consistently crowded, and (2) the crȇperie appropriate abutting aperture to it markets itself as the mini “Josselin” — and as they say, apery is the sincerest anatomy of flattery. Pro tip: Adjustment some cider with your crȇpe.
You can’t go to Paris after bistro at a café (no, really, admitting — I anticipate it’s physically impossible). Some of my favorites are Café Le Rostand, which overlooks the admirable Jardin du Luxembourg. If it’s balmy out, I acclaim that you sit alfresco and adjustment a allotment of one of their accomplished bootleg tarts for dessert. La Terrasse is addition one of my favorites — it’s abundant for archetypal French book and has a appearance of the École Militaire. It’s additionally not far from the Eiffel Tower, if you’re up for an black airing pre- or post-dinner. Les Deux Magots, amid in advanced of the abbey Saint-Germain des Prés, was acclaimed for actuality the adopted café of the French arcane and bookish aristocratic (including abortive brace Simone de Beauvoir and Jean-Paul Sartre).
I’d be cheating you of France’s finest if I didn’t absolute you to the grocery store. In my apprehensive opinion, French grocery food are paradise on Earth. I acclaim activity to alternation abundance Monoprix, (which has a admirable grocery central it) and aggravating a few of my admired French snacks: behemothic praline chocolates from Suchard (the dark-chocolate and milk-chocolate versions are appropriately delicious), mini “crȇpes dentelles fromage” (tiny brittle crȇpes blimp with cheese, a abundant bite to allotment with a acquaintance over a drink), Riz Au Lait by Montblanc (canned rice pudding my mother acclimated to accept as a ambrosia aback she was a Girl Scout), “céréales fourrées chocolat” (chocolate-stuffed atom that is so acceptable it shouldn’t be advised cereal), this accurate “fromage blanc” yogurt (white cheese) that is an astonishing alloy of yogurt and chrism whose affinity I accept never begin anywhere in America, these amber puddings that appear with chrism on top (there’s additionally a coffee acidity that’s actually great), these brittle crȇpes you can eat abandoned or with bake-apple or ice cream, and finally, these puffs I can abandoned call as peanut Cheetos.
I would be accomplishing you a disservice if I didn’t allotment some of my admired Parisian desserts: the “puits d’amour,” “baba au rhum,” “religieuse,” “éclair,” or “macaron” at Stohrer, one of the oldest pastry shops in France (and the caterer at my parents’ wedding). Stohrer was Marie-Antoinette’s Austrian pastry chef, whom she brought with her to France, and he basically brought pastries to France. Addition abundant pastry to try is Mulot in the Saint-Germain area. Berthillon is the best acclaimed ice-cream boutique in Paris (my admired acidity is affection fruit, and my mother’s is “praliné aux pignons”). The boutique closes over the summer, but affluence of cafés about Paris serve its ice chrism as well. Finally, it’s account blockage out Paris’s oldest sweetshop, À La Mère de Famille, which has been in its aboriginal area aback 1761.
If you haven’t already spent your absolute vacation bistro what I appetite you to eat, Paris has affluence of abundant museums added than the touristy and actual awash Louvre. Musée du Luxembourg and its admirable garden, Jardin du Luxembourg, are both account blockage out. In the bounce and summer, the Jardin du Luxembourg is actually breathtaking. Le Petit Palais is a admirable architecture with an admirable collection; it looks out on Le Grand Palais, which is addition arresting building with abundant exhibits. If you appetite to apprentice about the history of Paris, blockage out the Musée Carnavalet. Off Abode des Vosges, you can acquisition Maison Victor Hugo, which is accessible to the accessible and is breadth the biographer lived amid 1832 and 1848. Musée Rodin has a admirable garden absorbed to it breadth you can backpack a barbecue and accept lunch.
A brace of touristy activities I like to do: Book a baiter ride on the Vedettes du Pont-Neuf for a bout of Paris as apparent from the Seine. And if you’re activity spooky, don’t absence Paris’s catacombs, which are actually awful and authority the charcoal of almost 6 actor people. Speaking of spooky, it’s account blockage out the Montparnasse Cemetery and Père Lachaise Cemetery, which are acclaimed for all the acclaimed bodies active in them. There are additionally a brace of churches I wouldn’t miss, including the celebrated Notre-Dame and Saint-Julien Le Pauvre, which is one of the oldest churches in Paris. A lot of Paris’s history lives in its churches.
Paris is, of course, a abundant abode to shop. There’s a actually beautiful and tiny best abundance in the Marais adjacency at 32 Rue des Rosiers — the boutique acclimated to be a hair-stylist, and the assurance still reads “Coiffeur.” It’s a abundant abode to analyze through bags and chaotic racks. I consistently acquaint my accompany to analysis out the accouterment at Monoprix. It sells pretty, bargain stuff, and no one aback home will apperceive you bought that beautiful new top while arcade for groceries. Note that altered locations backpack hardly altered stock, so if you’re bromidic by one, try another. Burghal Pharma is the cheapest pharmacy in Paris, and it’s a absolute asylum but actually account it. If you’re not abiding what to buy, you can consistently ask the pharmacists for recommendations, but these recommendations from the Cut’s chief adorableness editor, Kathleen Hou, are a abundant abode to start. You can additionally analysis out Mademoiselle Bio for amoebic and accustomed products. I decidedly like its affected facial spray! If you’re into old prints and maps, Galerie Martinez-Fleurot and Galerie Paul Prouté are musts. You can acquisition actually air-conditioned items at all amount credibility there, and they’re a one-minute airing apart, so you can do them both in one trip.
If you’re into crafting, I.D.M. is a little boutique that carries all things sewing. Even admitting I’m not abundant of a jewelry-maker, La Droguerie is one of my admired stores. It stocks an astonishing arrangement of beads, threads, and yarns, and the shopkeepers will airing you through authoritative any of your account a reality. It faces the abbey breadth Molière was baptised alleged Saint-Eustache, which is account bustling into if you accept the time. If you’re not crafty, it’s the blazon of abundance that makes you actually appetite to be. Finally, Déballage Dreyfus, Tissus Reine, and Sacrés Coupons are huge bolt food amid abreast Montmartre. If you’re the array of being who buys bolt and does being with it, you can calmly absorb an absolute day in these neighborhood.
— If you appetite a acceptable baguette, attending for a bakery that markets itself as an “artisan boulanger.” La Parisienne (on Rue de Vaugirard) is a acceptable abode to start. Aback you buy your baguette, be abiding to aces up some chouquettes to go with it. They’re these sugar-crusted puffs that are adorable aback done right!
— The little blooming stands lining the Seine are are alfresco booksellers, accepted as les bouquinistes, that advertise books, old magazines, and all sorts of awe-inspiring and air-conditioned oddities account blockage out.
— The subways abutting at 12:45 a.m. and reopen at 5 a.m. We’re not in New York anymore! And do booty advantage of Paris’s admirable bus system.
— Beware of pickpockets. The French are shameless.
— Don’t tip added than a brace of euros at restaurants and bars. Service is a allotment of wait-staff salaries over there.
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